The History of Indian Fashion

by: Dr. Gauri Goel

 

In the indigenous Indian tradition, stitched garments were not known or used at all. The art of sewing was unknown to the early Indians, and that it was an import from outside. Art of sewing came to India only with the coming of the Muslims.'

The 'timeless' Indian dress of men, thus, consists of garments that use no stitching. The Dhoti, the Scarf or Uttariya, and the Turban, which have never really disappeared from any part of India, belong to this category.

Likewise, for women, the Dhoti or the Sari as the lower garments, combined with a Stanapatta or breast-band for covering the breasts, forms a basic ensemble. The breast-garment being simply fastened in a knot at the back.

The veil that women still use so extensively in India, something like the dupatta or odhani of modern times, has its early prototype in the Vedic period.

Turban was the head-gears of men. The manner of wearing the turban evidently varied as much in ancient India as it did in medieval.

There are specific references to the clothing of religious men, special mention being made of the sanghati or double chadar that the Bhikshuks of the Buddhist orders were meant to wear. This was combined with an antarvasaka or loin-cloth and a dupatta or loose upper garment, also called the uttarasanga.

India has a rich and varied textile heritage, where each region of India has its own unique native costume and traditional attire. For example in Uttar Pradesh saree for women and kurta, dhoti for men was traditional costume, in south Indian states, nine yard saree, ghahra skirt and blouse were worn by women and dhoti with shirt was were worn by men. In Punjab, salwar kameez for women and kurta, pyjama for men were traditional costumes.  Like wise in Rajsthan and other states also there were traditional costumes worn by different groups of people.

Indian people express themselves a great deal through their clothing. Their spiritual quest for perfection plays a role in their choices of beautifully coloured, dramatic and flowing garments. Tradional costumes in India vary widely depending on the climate and natural fibers grown in a region.

While traditional clothes are still worn in most of rural India, urban India is changing rapidly, with international fashion trends reflected by the young and glamorous, in the cosmopolitan metros of India.

The key moments of history of Indian fashion classic, triggered by various socioeconomic movements during the twentieth century. Now Indians are free to wear what they want to wear, traditional or western.