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Silk saree: Banarasi

PROCESS OF WEAVING  BANARASI SAREE

By: Dr. Gauri Goel

Silk saree weaving is the age old tradition of Varanasi or Banaras or Kashi. The process of handloom weaving in Varanasi is very tedious, complex but interesting. This process was explained by some weavers during survey.

To weave a silk fabric, first of all the silk yarn called katan is reeled, bleached and dyed. The dyed yarn is prepared for tana (warp) and bana (weft). Three to five people are needed to reel the warp. Warp is wrapped on a warp cylinder in sufficient length required to weave a known length of sarees. Yarn for the weft is reeled on small cylindrical object in a process known locally as nari bharana. The weft-yarn is used in a shuttle called dharki, which is thrown from one to other side while weaving. Children in household help in the weaving process by throwing this shuttle while sitting beside the adult weaver on the loom. This is also a method by which the weaving skills are taught to the children. Nari bharna is a continuous process as long as loom is running. A charkha (spinning wheel), now made up of a bicycle rim and a paddle, is used for winding the yarn on nari (bobbins) and is usually done by women. Plate 1 (b) and (c) shows shuttle used to pass weft yarns and charkha used to wind yarn on bobbins.

The specific designs of the sarees are created by skilled designers as well as master weavers who work on their own or are employed by the entrepreneurs. Most of these designs are created on jacquard loom for which the designs are sent to specialized shops that translate the designs into a series of punch cards. A design generally involves a few hundred cards. A card cutter cuts and punches these with small non-electric implements, plate II (a). He makes about 200 cards per day. Price of one card is ` 2.00. The raw material cost is ` 1/- card. He, thus, earns almost ` 200/day.

Zari used in Banarasi Saree

Zari is the vim and vigor of silk fabrics woven in Varanasi. Therefore, it is must to know the characteristics of this zari yarn used abundantly in Varanasi.

The process of zari making is called tarkashi, which was earlier done in Varanasi. But now, zari is made on machines and mostly imported from Surat, Gujarat.  Three types of zari are popular in market. First is called “real zari”. Its base is made up of pure silver and surface is gold plated. The rates of this type of zari are about ` 30,000/kg. Second type of zari thread is called as “tested zari”, there are also two verities in this type of zari with their local names “khar ki pakki” and “bina khar ki pakki”. “Khar ki pakki” zari will not discolor during silk processing, hence called by this name. This zari has a copper base with or without polish. The prices of this type of zari threads are about ` 5000/kg. Third type of zari is “powder zari” (made up of polymeric material), which cost about ` 1800/Kg.  Plastic zari is also popular in today’s market. This is made up of “Lores” plastic and is low in cost varies from ` 400-700/Kg.