Fashion History

Dr. Gauri Goel

Couture Beginnings

In France, tight corsets, and pharthingales were worn by royal courts. The first fashion designer who was not merely a dressmaker was Charles Frederick (1826–1895). Before the former draper set up his maison de couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from styles worn at royal courts.

Early twentieth century

Throughout the early 20th century, practically all high fashion originated in Paris. At this time in fashion history the division between haute couture and ready-to-wear was not sharply defined.

Around the start of the 20th century fashion style magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential.

By the end of the 19th-century, the horizons of the fashion industry had generally broadened, partly due to the more stable and independent lifestyle many well-off women were beginning to adopt and the practical clothes they demanded. Toward the end of the decade the fashionable silhouette gradually became somewhat more straight and slim, partly due to high-waisted, shorter-skirted line of clothes.

1910s

During the early years of the 1910s the fashionable silhouette became much more lithe, fluid and soft than in the 20th century. Simple felt hats, turbans, and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of headgear popular in the 20th century. Changes in dress during World War I were dictated more by necessity than fashion. As more and more women were forced to work, they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new activities. By 1915 fashionable skirts had risen above the ankle and then later to mid-calf.

Between the wars

The period between the two World Wars, often considered to be the Golden Age of French fashion, was one of great change and reformation. Carriages were replaced by cars, princes and princesses lost their crowns, and haute couture found new clients in the ranks of film actresses, American heiresses, and the wives and daughters of wealthy industrialists.

1920s

Soon after the First World War, a radical change came about in fashion. Corsets were abandoned and women borrowed their clothes from the male wardrobe and chose to dress like boys.

1930s

Overall, 1930s clothing was somber and modest, reflecting the difficult social and economic situation of the decade. The waist was restored to its proper position, hemlines dropped, there was renewed appreciation of the bust, and backless evening gowns and soft, slim-fitting day dresses became popular.

Mid-twentieth century

The couturier Christian Dior created a tidal wave with his first collection in February 1947. The collection contained dresses with tiny waists, majestic busts, and full skirts swelling out beneath small bodices.

1950s

In the early 1950s, many couture houses used the interest in "foundation wear" to launch their own lines, soon after many lingerie manufacturers began to build their own brands. In 1957, Jane Russell wore the "Cantilever" bra. The invention of Lycra (originally called "Fibre K") in 1959 revolutionized the underwear industry and was quickly incorporated into every aspect of lingerie.

1960s

Until the 1960s, Paris was considered to be the center of fashion throughout the world. In the 1960s fashion became just as much a statement of personal freedom.

At the start of the decade skirts were knee-length, but steadily became shorter and shorter until the mini-skirt emerged in 1965. The basic shape and style of the time was simple, neat, clean cut, and young. Synthetic fabrics were very widely-used during the 1960s.

1970s

In the 1970s, Jeans became popular American fashion.  

Late twentieth century

During the late 20th century, fashions began to criss-cross international boundaries with rapidity. Popular Western styles were adopted all over the world. Synthetic materials such as Lycra, Spandex, and viscose became widely-used.

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